Much as I miss my favourite takeaway meal while eating my un-battered midweek meals, it’s probably a good thing my DIY dinners don’t always taste like restaurant food.
After all, Anthony Bourdain famously told the New York Times that the secret to diner happiness lies in unconscionable levels of butter and salt ― his own carrots vichy recipe incorporates 907g of butter and 300g of sugar.
With that said, sometimes it’s worth adapting some of the pros’ tricks at home. For instance, I’ve kept blanched broccoli in my fridge ever since I learned how handy it is; after I found out chefs par-boil risotto for faster service, I’ve never returned to my old ways.
And now, a YouTube short from former chef @acooknamedMatt has permanently altered my chip-making ways too.
According to former chef Matt, it’s down to how they pre-cook ’em.
Boiling the sliced chips first, “just until they start to fall apart,” creates little cracks in the surface of the golden delights “so that when you fry it, you have more texture”.
It’s a bit like “chuffing” your roast potatoes before you place them in hot oil, which we’ve found yields the crispiest, fluffiest results.
And just as Marc Williams, cookery school director at The Grand in York, recommends doing with your par-boiled roasties, Matt leaves his softened spuds to cool in the fridge before frying them.
He leaves them “ideally overnight” before frying them lightly once, leaving the skin “leathery-looking” but still pale.
Then, Matt refrigerates his once-fried chips again ’til cooled; after that, he places them back into hot oil for their final fry.
He seasons them while hot, which helps the salt to stick better to the potato (I’m not drooling, you are).
The kind of potato you choose matters.
Jamie Oliver recommends a floury, rather than waxy, spud for the job ― he opts for a Maris Piper, but a King Edward or Rooster will do just as well.
Jamie adds that most chip shops have industrial fryers, whose high temperatures we might struggle to recreate at home.
To get the best approximation, he says we should use 8cm of oil in a deep pan ― never filling it more than halfway ― and adds: “If you don’t have a thermometer, use a raw chip, and as it starts to float and fry the temperature should be about 140°C, which is perfect for blanching.”
The TV chef also states that sunflower and groundnut oils are great options for the job, but “if you’re after flavour, cooking chips in beef tallow (rendered beef fat you can get from your butcher) gives you better flavour and colour.”