After the sun sets, many people say they need to get their beauty sleep as an excuse for heading to bed early. This phrase usually elicits a chuckle, but a good night’s sleep really can help us look our best. Plus, it’s free, takes no effort, and can be done from the comfort of your own bed.  

“In addition to positively impacting a person’s mood and focus, consistent quality sleep can contribute to a person’s physical appearance,” said Dr. Clarisse Glen,a doctor of pulmonary medicine with Kaiser Permanente at Sacramento Medical Center. She diagnoses and treats underlying causes of sleep discomfort and sleep disorders and advises patients about the link between cosmetic factors and a good night’s sleep. “The science behind the term ‘beauty sleep’ is not a myth,” she added.

Although it’s not always easy to get a good night’s sleep, it’s “one of the simplest yet most effective ways to improve your skin’s appearance,” said Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at Kopelman Aesthetic Surgery. “I always tell my patients that you can spend a fortune on skin care, but if you’re not getting enough good-quality sleep, it’s harder to see the full benefits,” she said. “Prioritise rest, and let your body, and your skin, do the work while you sleep,” she said.

But how exactly does beauty sleep work? We asked some top dermatologists and doctors who treat sleep disorders to explain how getting a good night’s sleep helps us wake up looking refreshed, with better skin and hair. 

What is beauty sleep?

According to Kopelman, while we sleep “our body, and especially our skin, goes into repair mode.” That’s because while we are asleep “our bodies produce fewer stress hormones and more growth hormones and body-repairing hormones.”

Plus, “the body rebalances its hydration” while we sleep, explained Dr. Hadley King, a dermatologist at Dr. Hadley King Dermatology. As a result, “skin cells regenerate, repair the damage from environmental stressors, and produce collagen. ... [This process] is key to reducing fine lines and keeping skin looking plump and youthful,” she said.

Additionally, “quality sleep can also strengthen hair,” which can help some people feel more beautiful, Glen said. This 2023 study showed that sleep and your circadian rhythm has an impact on your hair’s growth cycle, which can affect hair loss.

What happens if you don’t get your beauty sleep?

According to Glen, poor sleep can cause “wrinkles and fine lines, dark circles, red or puffy eyes, paler skin, drooping eyelids and droopy corners of the mouth.” Additionally, she said “sleep-deprived individuals have also been perceived to look sad.” 

Moreover, not getting enough sleep can cause “increasing skin infections, predisposition to skin cancer and accelerated skin aging,” said Dr. Marianna Blyumin-Karasik, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Precision Skin Institute.  

Many of these issues are caused by cortisol. “Lack of sleep raises cortisol levels, which can break down collagen, leading to more fine lines and sagging skin over time,” Kopelman explained.

Cortisol can also “produce stress-induced pimples and blemishes,” Blyumin-Karasik added. Additionally, Glen said that cortisol increases oil production, which can results in greasy hair and potentially hair loss.

And it doesn’t take long for the effects of a bad night’s sleep to start appearing.

“It’s amazing how quickly that lack of rest can show up on your face,” Kopelman said. “Many patients notice increased puffiness, dark under-eye circles and a dull complexion when they’ve missed even a night of quality rest,” she observed. Often, these short-term effects are temporary. However, Kopelman sees more significant changes over time in her patients who have chronic problems getting a good night’s sleep. Too many nights of poor sleep can lead to long-lasting or permanent impacts on the skin, including “weakening the skin’s elasticity, diminishing its ability to repair itself, and accelerating signs of aging,” she said. 

A lack of beauty sleep can also impact your self-esteem. Overall, women who don’t get enough sleep are less satisfied with their appearance, according to the Journal of Clinical and Experimental Dermatology. 

What else can help you look your best in the morning?

Getting enough rest is an important part of beauty sleep. However, some simple steps can help you make the most of the hours you spend snoozing.

“Sleeping on a silk pillowcase can make a big difference for both your skin and hair,” Kopelman said. She explained that “silk minimises friction, so you’re less likely to wake up with those sleep creases on your face, and it helps prevent breakage and frizz in your hair.” 

Kopelman also recommends using high-quality cotton sheets “because they help regulate temperature and reduce sweat, which can clog pores and lead to breakouts.” Kopelman is also a fan of using an eye mask, especially a cooling one, because she supports the belief that they help you fall asleep faster and reduce puffiness and dark circles “by promoting better blood flow around the eyes.”

Additionally, Dr. Alain Michon, medical director of Project Skin MD Ottawa and a board-certified member of the American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine, recommends using a humidifier to keep the air from drying out your skin overnight. 

Your sleep position can also impact how you look in the morning. “For best results, try to stick to sleeping on your back, which is the best position to help reduce sleep-induced wrinkles as it avoids direct contact with the pillow,” Glen suggested. She also recommends “propping yourself up with an extra pillow to help reduce fluid build-up in the face, which can lead to puffy eyes in the morning.” 

Do beauty products work better overnight?

Many beauty products work better overnight than they do during the day. The skin has a “circadian rhythm for optimal function,” just like the rest of the body, Blyumin-Karasik explained. Our skin’s permeability is higher at night, which makes it easier for some ingredients to penetrate this skin while you sleep. While you sleep, “your skin is more open to absorbing some active ingredients when it’s not dealing with things like UV rays or pollution,” Michon added. 

Some products that work particularly well overnight are retinol creams, hydrating masks or serums with hyaluronic acid, Kopelman said. If you prefer to keep things simple, King said “moisturising the skin overnight is the most obvious benefit because our skin can dry out while we sleep, particularly if the air is dry.”

How much beauty sleep is optimal?

Ideally, everyone would get seven to nine hours of sleep so that “your skin has time to repair and refresh itself,” Michon said. However, if that’s not possible, Blyumin-Karasik recommends getting “eight hours of sleep a few times a week to regain mind-body-skin stamina.” 

To make it easier to get your beauty rest, Blyumin-Karasik suggests focusing on sleep hygiene. “Make sure you have a comfortable, cool, dark and minimal technology-invading environment for at least 30 minutes prior to sleep,” she said. She also recommends keeping a gratitude journal or meditating before sleep to decompress and promote a more restful night’s sleep. Michon advises maintaining a consistent sleep schedule to allow “your body to maximise these restorative processes.”

What’s the bottom line?

According to Glen, getting beauty sleep doesn’t have to be complicated. “Prioritise getting 7-8 hours of sleep per night, establish a good skin care and bedtime routine, and you will be set up for success in achieving a healthy morning glow,” she said.