Mohammad is slowly roasting Arabic coffee beans over a fire. As he pulls the pan from the flame and begins to grind the beans by hand, another local Bedouin shepherd Ameen explains to me how the coffee is traditionally served for special occasions such as a wedding or when guests are visiting. As we sip on the bitter coffee, Mohammad’s niece and nephew gather around and we all pull hunks of bread from the slab that he has just cooked for us by covering the sand in ashes, which we dip in fresh goat’s butter.