Litton Cheney, Dorset: We worked as fast as we could, but the rainy year has been too much for this crop of chardonnay grapes
“Eternal gratitude from the wine gods,” promised a poster calling for harvest help. There were photos of a sunny vineyard and a fat bunch of pinot noir grapes, misted purple against golden leaves. I was beguiled.
The realities of agricultural work have always been at odds with its depiction. This year, winemakers in south-west England endured months of rain and lack of sunlight, culminating in a sodden autumn. September was the rainiest since records began in 1871, and October offered no respite.
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