Art nouveau cafes, Ottoman architecture and beer halls make these modest cities a big draw away from the crowds

I got off the train to Venice last summer in Trieste, planning to spend a few hours there, but was so knocked over by its beauty that I stayed for a few days. Tucked away in the north-east of Italy, it’s a crosscultural cocktail of Hapsburg, baroque and Slavic views and vibes – with a slice of Latin lemon thrown in. Piazza Unità d’Italia is an elegant square full of classy art nouveau cafes with the sea on one side – locally known as the Living Room of Italy. I strolled along Barcola for the evening passeggiata after checking out the nearby Miramare castle. There are beaches on the edge of the city that are easy to walk to – I had a swim one day. The food is hearty – Germanic meaty stews and spicy pizzas - while the coffee is strong. Joyce and Hemingway loved lingering over meals and drinks here – and I could see why.
Nigel