Whether it’s smoked cheese, Alpine beer or something Nonna used to make, when Italian foodies want an authentic taste of home, this is what they reach for …

Colatura di alici
Simona Di Dio, head chef and co-owner of Bottega Caruso, Margate

My mother always told me that spaghetti con le vongole only needs fresh clams, extra virgin olive oil, wine, garlic, chilli, parsley and pepper. But since I discovered colatura di alici, I always add that, too. My mum doesn’t need to know! The intense, salty depths of this anchovy sauce are hard to describe; you just need a few drops to finish a dish. It’s an ancient descendant of Roman garum, close to Asian fish sauce, but equally very different. We always have it on the shelves at Bottega Caruso and I still get excited telling people about it – it’s the umami taste per eccellenza.