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When I was asked to review plant-based cheeses, I thought twice about doing so. Although there are some companies, usually smaller operations, that make non-dairy cheese out of fermented nuts or soya beans, more often than not it’s manufactured by big companies who are adept at recreating flavours, but who use ultra-processed ingredients such as emulsifiers, stabilisers and additives to get there.

I’ve used vegan cheese only a handful of times in the eight years I’ve been writing my vegan column for the Guardian, partly because I like to know what’s going into my body (and, on reading the ingredients, I am often bamboozled), and also because it varies so wildly in terms of how it behaves: does it melt, split, grate and, most importantly, how does it taste? For a food writer, that makes it tricky to use and make sure there’s consistency in the journey between my kitchen and yours.