Creamy leeks, smoked fish, pearl barley – comfort cooking for the colder months

There are certain recipes to which I turn each winter – recipes that somehow feel right only when the weather is cold and cupboard supplies are low. The smoky notes of poached haddock and a creamy leek mash; soft buns stuffed with grilled squash and spiced-up creme fraiche, and a soupy dish of pearl barley and dried mushrooms are just three that spring to mind.

A simple midweek roast has become something of a winter staple in this house. Not the full bells and whistles Sunday lunch but something I can do in less than an hour on a Wednesday evening. I pop a few chicken thighs in the oven, then make a side dish of bread sauce, seasoned with thyme leaves and the delicious crusty bits from the roasting tin. Cheap and quick, but it feels almost as special as the Sunday roast.