Fried tofu in a zippy, salty-sour sauce and tangled in a bed of noodles

I went to Bath recently to do an event at Topping & Company for my new book, Dinner, and fell so in love with the city that I seriously thought about moving there. I forced myself to think about what I’d miss about London, and Kingsland Road, with all of its Vietnamese cafes, immediately popped into my head. I’d miss walking past all those windows steamed up from the hot pots and pho, and the smell of lemongrass in the air. All that thinking made me very hungry, and today’s recipe is the result. Perhaps if I can recreate those smells and steamed windows in my own kitchen one day, I could move. We’ll see …