It’s not a looker, but this Thai-inspired stir-fry is simple to make and, most importantly, delicious

This popular Thai stir-fry has taken a while to come out of the shadows and into this column due to an insecurity about its looks. It knows full well that it tastes delicious and is well-loved, and a variation of it, pad faktong, made with egg instead of tofu, is beloved by Thais and cooked both at home and in Thailand’s many ran khao kaengs, or rice and curry shops. It’s simple to make, very delicious, but ugly. And that’s OK.