The experiment with five flavours at this Brazilian-inspired place will leave diners feeling only bitter

Maroto, 4 Vere Street, London W1G 0DH (020 7889 9700). Starters £8-£21, mains £17-£32, sharing dishes £105-£140, desserts £10-£13, wines from £45

Before we get on to the “five flavour experience”, the big selling point of this new Brazilian-inspired restaurant, let’s take a moment to accentuate the positive by admiring the lighting design. Because we do need to find something to celebrate here. The lighting really is a model of its kind. A combination of dangling downlights and strategically positioned lamps on the bare wooden tables means there’s enough illumination to see everything without sparking up the smartphone torch. And yet the rest of the room, with its sandstone-coloured walls and undulating grey leather banquettes, like pilates rollers, is held in a moody, intimate glow. I’d urge restaurant designers to go have a look and take notes. Possibly quite quickly.