The Nagapattinam-Kankesanthurai ferry between India and Sri Lanka, restarted in October 2023 after nearly 40 years, was suspended after a week and resumed only this August. While the demand for the service was initially low, it has picked up in the last few weeks. Nacchinarkkiniyan M. travels on the ferry with tourists, traders, and refugees and reports on the excitement and concerns about the initiative in the two countries