The lakeside resort of Zell am See is big on outdoor fun, hearty food and stunning views

We could feel the carefree spirit in the crisp air the moment we stepped off the train at Zell am See. It’s in the town’s DNA. Pleasure seekers have been coming to this lake and mountain resort in search of clean air, crystal waters and Alpine adventures ever since the railway connected what was then a mere village to Salzburg and beyond in 1875. We’d come to walk, bike a little, swim a bit and reward ourselves with Austrian cuisine – at a restorative, schedule-free pace.

We passed bakeries, hiking shops and the Romanesque church in the old town on the way to our hotel, before joining the 10km tree-lined promenade that rings the lake. Waffle and ice-cream stands, terrace cafés, strollers and couples holding hands, the glistening lake… It felt like we had gone back in time.