Bagnoles de l’Orne in Normandy is a traditional spa town reinventing itself with new hiking and cycling routes – and a focus on sustainable tourism

Kévin Raimond was teaching me how to walk. I thought I already knew, but this tall, bearded, laid-back Frenchman had fresh wisdom to impart. “Inhale for three steps, hold your breath for one,” he said, hands pressed to his inflating belly. “Then exhale for three steps and hold for one. And repeat.”

Afghan walking is a technique used by nomads in Afghanistan. It is supposed to reduce stress, improve circulation and increase stamina, enabling them to cover vast distances with minimal effort. As Kévin and I were exploring the Andaines Forest, in south-west Normandy – part of what has become the largest waymarked area in France – I thought some stamina might prove useful.