This cool, crunchy Sichuan salad, drenched in garlicky dressing and fiery chillies, is now a global favourite. The secret? Make sure you bruise the cucumbers, rather than actually smash them

Though I suspect many of us first find ourselves drawn to this Chinese “cold plate” by the faintly surreal overtones of vegetable-based violence suggested by the name (and before you say it, cucumbers are, of course, botanically speaking a fruit), it’s the flavour that keeps us coming back for more. A salad of cool, crunchy fruit bathed in a deeply savoury, garlicky dressing, according to Wei Guo of the Red House Spice blog, Pāi Huáng Guā is to be found on “family dinner tables, in small street cafes and in upscale restaurants” nationwide.

Here in the UK, however, it’s particularly associated with Sichuan restaurants, where the cucumbers act as a bracing contrast to the fiery flavours of chilli and hot and numbing Sichuan peppercorns. In fact, there are many different versions regionally, but what they all have in common is a guarantee to wake up your palate with a good smack after all those turkey sandwiches – though it would pair pretty well with them, too. In fact, smacked cucumbers go with everything from grilled meat to hot pots, but right now I’d recommend starting with a fried egg (or some silken tofu) and a bowl of steamed rice.