This year’s event, heavily promoted by India’s ruling party, continues despite deaths of at least 30 people

As the sun set on the sangam, the sacred meeting point of the Ganges and Yamuna rivers on Tuesday, there was a mood of jubilation on the banks. This was the eve of one of the holiest days of the Kumbh Mela festival – the largest religious gathering not only in India but the world – and millions upon millions had made long, often arduous journeys to immerse themselves in the water.

“It seems like the entire country has come to the sangam to bathe,” exclaimed Rubi Kumar, 43, sandwiched tightly with fellow devotees on the riverbank. She had taken a 36-hour train from her home state of Bihar, and then walked 25 miles to reach this spot. Still dripping wet from her first holy dip, she beamed widely as she tied up her soft pink sari.