Spicy Rhônes for the roast, aromatic riesling for the leftovers, and excellent value fizzes to bring in the new year

When it comes to choosing the right wines, Christmas dinner is something of a challenge. The classic bird (or plant-based alternative) with all the trimmings is a riot of sensations, flavours and textures, from the soft umami hit of stuffing and gravy to the piercing sweet-sour burst of cranberry sauce and the bitter green tang of sprouts. I tend to go one of two ways: pick out an acid-driven wine (white, red or orange) that will cleanse and revive and cut through the fat; or something substantial and spicy (a beefy red or rich oak-aged white) that stands up to anything you care to throw at it.

I’ve included several examples of each in this year’s selection, and in a range of prices and sources. There are also wines to take care of aperitifs, puddings, parties and the shapeless hours (and leftovers) of the days after you’ve cleared away the wrapping paper but before you’ve popped the cork on the New Year’s Eve fizz (also included here). A final suggestion: if you need more than a couple of bottles this Christmas, it’s worth thinking about buying by the case of six or 12, with plenty of multi-buy discounts available from independent merchants and online specialists as well as the supermarkets.