Gleaming marquee wallpapered with violin sheet music is venue for spectacular Paris show

In the courtyard of a 12th-century hunting lodge in Paris was hidden a gleaming new marquee, wallpapered all over with sheet music for a violin sonata. In the centre of the marquee was The Only Place You Came To Me Was In My Sleep, a 2017 life-size bronze sculpture of a small bird by Tracey Emin. Around the bird, which gazed down on the room from a 13-foot pole, were seated an audience including actors Jeff Goldblum, Rob Lowe and Ayo Edebiri, each clutching the heavy golden Tudor love rings that were their invitations to the Loewe fashion show, in preparation for which this scene had been created.

Of all the many unexpected elements of the world designer Jonathan Anderson has built at Loewe, the strangest part of all is that this esoteric universe is a smash hit. Loewe, a venerable Spanish brand, which had previously enjoyed a respectable 150 years making elegant handbags for Madrid’s ladies who lunch, has in Anderson’s era become the fastest-growing house in the LVMH luxury stable.