While the traditional version of this dish from north Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region calls for pork loin, it can also be prepared with pork shoulder, which is budget friendlier and more reliably available in grocery stores. Some recipes include baking soda to keep the braising liquid from splitting; without it, the milk collects into ricotta-like curds, which many adore even if the look is not as aesthetically favoured. There’s also the option to whiz the sauce in a blender once reheated to return it to a silky emulsion.—Tara O'Brady